Il Taccuino

Ines's notebook on Naples. Stories, places and very good food, jotted down between walks.

What to look for, what to ask, and why the person you really want might be a host.

Walking itineraries for the old centre, food, the seafront, the Sanità and a cruise stop.

A secret staircase, a cave full of skulls, a tunnel full of old cars and a poet's tomb. The Naples most visitors walk straight past.

Mosaics, light and contemporary art, a few metres beneath the street. A gallery you can visit for the price of a ticket.

From the first coffee at the bar to the last babà: how Naples eats, and when.